Paris is a city of eternal returns. Today the giant annual agricultural fair — Le Salon de l’Agriculture — gets into swing at the Porte de Versailles conference center on the edge of town. It runs until February 27. Prepare yourself for braying, barking, mooing, bellowing, and crooning — hayseed populism is the watchword.
Former president Jacques Chirac used to love pressing the flesh at the Salon. His successor, fearless leader Nicolas “big money” “glam” Sarkozy, is less adept at smiling as his mitt clamps down on hands that have just served slippery Morteau sausages. The air is scented by the food from hundreds of stands, and 39 restaurants, from dozens of countries.
As always, terroir is one of the themes: authentic and purportedly authentic regional foods from every corner of France (and the world). The air is also scented by burping bovines and other methane-producing creatures. And sausages aren’t the only slippery things you’re likely to encounter. So if you go, make sure to wear sturdy shoes, the kind you’d take to the countryside for an earthy walk.
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